Rested, Tanned, Ready

Rested, Tanned, Ready. Lets do this.

Friday, November 29, 2013

Trim panel #1


The plywood is a bit too thick as maybe is the foam.  Believe it or not, the trim wouldn't fit.  It got me to think more about how this is all gonna work and how to buff these trim pieces out.  They are very hard coated and thin at the same time.  Polishing didn't do anything much.  I may leave them as is and live with the few imperfections there are.

It'll give me something else to think about while on my vacation.

Interior panels

Good thing to do while watching the James Bond marathon after eating too much turkey.  I need to round off the corners of the wood panels, find some shorter 3/16 stainless staples, get more foam and locate my foam spray glue.

This fabric and color is amazing (but not cheap). I'm thinking about creating 2 stainless "J" upholstery buttons for the rear panels . I think that will pop nicely.

Thursday, November 28, 2013

Tabbed transom

This morning I mixed up 14 oz of resin for the tabbing of the transom to the hull bottom and sides.  Before that though, I mixed up a small batch of resin and filler to fill in the holes I made for bolts to help clamp.  The mix was peanut butter thick.  I typically use West Systems 405 and 407 depending on either strength or bonding that I'm, looking for.

The Jet heater was on quite a bit to try to keep the temp 62.  Windy outside blowing through all the cracks of the garage.

Not too concerned with the beauty of the glass cut
 I didn't go up the sides very far on purpose; the top edge needs to flex to fit the top when it comes back to mating the two.
After 14 oz resin
 I filled these arbitrary pockets with expanding foam to, well, add flotation, but mostly to keep water from pooling at the bottom and rotting out the transome (again.)  Bad design in terms of longevity, but the flared out tail looks way kewel.

Good to get it completely filled otherwise water will be even more trapped in there

Ready to go outside for hull sanding.  I remember that well.

Wednesday, November 27, 2013

Whats coming up

The plan is to tab the transom to the hull once the PL filler is dry, while its in a warm garage.  Once that is cured, it'll come out and be flipped for sanding which should take quite a few sessions.  I'll most likely fill holes if I have a halfway decent warm day in the coming week or two.  May need heat lamps but thats ok.  The deck will go on a trailer to be able to be moved in or out depending on grinding or glassing.  Holding off on the rest of the floor/stringers until I need to get there.  It leaves the boat light and movable.  I can work on deck top sanding and filling and underside wiring, steering, and much more.  So far winter is a slower downer but not forcing me into the basement to polish parts or make upholstery.

Stuff comes in

New 6" 3M DA air sander (we use these at work and they are awesome) with 5/16 orbit.  If you do a lot of sanding, get rid of the Dewalt electric and move up.

Some fiberglass matt (need for the floor, stringers and transom).  I usually get the narrow rolls but this was cheaper.

Vinyl for the dash (special closeout deal, needed to buy NOW!)  Gonna have to learn to pleat with the sewing machine!

Steering wheel thoughts

Cleaned up the steering wheel and parts to determine what I had, will it buff out, do I like it, how does it work, how much farmer modifications are present, etc.

Most of the crud was grease that came off nicely in the parts washer.

Black color rubbed off nicely so I can refinish

It looks promising; it'll need some sort of finish on the plastic wheel, a new cable, a center cap and some painting parts but looks possible at this point.  There's at least one modification done by someone with new holes and a wooden "gasket".  We'll see.

Parallel to this I have not been able to find something I like better for under a hundred.  Plenty above $180 or so.  Here is the top contender at $175:

I like the two spoke idea and the knob
 This one is OK but still pricy being stainless:

Three spokes isn't as cool

Filled transom gap

The pl sags a bit but not too much.  There is a good alternative in West Systems epoxy thickened in a tube (gun) but not worth it in my opinion. Again, glastron only filled the bottom tenth or so, I have a solid bead throughout the transom/hull.

I removed the bolts holding the wood to the hull and resined the holes.